Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Swimming San Francisco Bay


The Straits of the Golden Gate and San Francisco Bay are part of a deep underwater canyon. 528 billion gallons of water flow through the narrow straits every six hours, creating giant underwater "sand waves." The combination of strong winds, tides, water flow and variable atmospherics (fog, etc) creates a challenging and exciting water-sports environment.

Since before we moved here, I've envisioned daily swims in this ocean. While swimming underneath the Golden Gate Bridge is some of the fiercest total-body exercise imaginable, it doesn't seem like exercise in my mind -- a key factor in my work-out success. Looking back on all the bicycle marathons and racquetball games, I'm aware that if I'm having fun with exercise, I work harder and am in better shape.

So we move here. While planning a kayaking-swminning double-threat, I break my foot running up the Baker Beach cliffs. In the long recovery, as I lose any physical edge I ever had, I still think about swimming in the ocean and bay.

Finally, action! I find a thin, cheap wetsuit. The 1-mm triathlon wetsuit is a super-thin layer of insulation between me and the cold water, but flexible! For swimming, flexibility trumps insulation, even in the chilly coastal waters.

Amidst the sailboats, windsurfers, tankers, cruise ships, and marine life, I wade into the San Francisco Bay at Chrissy Field, just east of the Golden Gate.

The sea floor is intensely ridged and drops off abruptly. The choppy waves slap my body and I submerge quickly, hoping to get the freeze over with quickly. Yikes, it's cold!

The water is brackish and the current is strong. I start swimming, glad for the silly red swim cap and amber goggles. Really glad for even this thin wetsuit. After a few minutes, the only truly uncomfortable coldness is in my hands.

This is a gorgeous day. The water is about 60 degrees, the air about 68, the sun is shining and the fog is still an hour away. I flip over on my back and look at the bridge, ready to dodge the windsurfers all around me.

Richard is on the shore, giving me a thumbs-up, while Bryn runs in the surf. She'll go out only so far, then race back onto the beach. I didn't reckon on the other dogs, though -- the Labradors who swim out to retrieve me.

The gamble has paid off -- the decision to get the 1mm suit instead of a 4mm -- I'm cold but not that cold, and as flexible as if I'm in the pool at the Y.

But I'm not inside, paddling down a lane shared with four others, the smell of chlorine and chemicals clinging to my hair, suit, skin. I'm outside in the Bay under the sun, and it doesn't feel like exercise at all.

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